Marine Fish & Aquaria

Quality Marine Water

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Quality Marine Water

Good quality water conditions are essential for a thriving marine aquarium, whether its fish only or a mixed reef system.

Efficient filtration is a must, and the filtration media is an important factor. Seachem produce many different types of filtration media, which may be of benefit to your aquarium.


Matrix is a highly porous media designed to provide exceptionally efficient bio filtration for single site removal of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate from freshwater or marine aquaria. Each litre of Matrix provides over 160000cm2 of surface, equivalent to over 40 litres of typical “plastic ball media”.


de*nitrate removes nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and organics from both freshwater and marine water. The high porosity of  de*nitrate supports the proliferation of both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria that further remove these toxic aquarium byproducts. Even when exhausted as an organic adsorbent, de*nitrate continues to be an excellent support for the biological filter and does not have to be removed.


Seagel is a blend of MatrixCarbon and Phosguard. MatrixCarbon is an ultracapacity carbon for the removal of organic and colour impurities. Phosguard is a powerful remover of phosphate, silicate, toxic metals and acids.Both components are bead shaped for optimum water flow characteristics and penetration. The components enhance each other and are ideal for reef and marine use.

Take a look at our Seachem range in store, for products to help you get the best from your aquarium – prices from £6.99.

Treating Marine White Spot

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Treating Marine White Spot

Treating marine white spot can sometimes be a problem and you need to be sure that you are providing the correct treatment depending on the type of marine aquarium you have.

There are three types:

  • fish only
  • fish only with live rock
  • mixed reef

Fish Only

In a fish only aquarium  the treatment for white spot or oodinium is a copper based cure like Cupramine, this is a very effective cure and is easy to use. It does have one drawback and that is that once used it will then prevent the introduction of any invertebrates into the aquarium as it is not possible to remove the copper from the system as it is absorbed by sand and rocks.

Fish Only with Live Rock

In a fish only with live rock copper cures cannot be used as they will kill the live rock.
Octozin is the only safe option in this case but may require two treatments to be effective.

Mixed Reef

In a mixed reef system again copper cures cannot be used and octozin is the only safe option.

Beneficial Practices

The natural method – keep a cleaner wrasse in your aquarium. This little fish is nature’s way of removing parasites from fish, the wrasse picks off and eats the parasites, keeping fish clean. Cleaner shrimp will also perform the same function.

Raise the temperature in the aquarium to thirty degrees Celsius, this will accelerate the life cycle of the parasite making the treatment more effective.

Reduce the s.g of the aquarium the reduction to 1.018 s.g bursts the white spot cysts this should be done in slow stages so as not to shock the fish and invertebrates.

But by far the best thing to do is to have a quarantine tank set up and mature and when buying fish quarantine them for two weeks and treat with a copper based cure before introducing them to your main display. Here we do just this with any fish we import.

We also have our fish systems and coral systems separate so we can keep our fish in a low level of copper to ensure they are free from parasites.

It is a sad event that some fish shops do not quarantine their fish when importing and sell them within a few days of receiving them this is stressful for the fish as they have not settled from being in a plastic bag in a box for 36 hours, and stress is the greatest reason fish get white spot.

With shipments every two weeks, we go to great lengths to quarantine our fish and make sure they are the best we can supply – this may explain why our main tanks are not always full as we have fish waiting to come out from quarantine with a clean bill of health!

Aquarium Lighting

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Aquarium Lighting

Get the best from your fish and plant by keeping up with your light maintenance.

Fish and plants need good quality lighting so keeping the tubes clean helps more light penetrate through the water. Adding reflectors will give up to 50% more light penetration, and also the age of the tubes plays an important role – after twelve months the output of the light tubes will have been reduced by ninety percent so they need to be replaced.

Adding the right lighting combination will enhance your fish and plants – a colour corrected “pink” tube at the front and a white tube at the rear will give a balanced spectrum for everything.

You may even consider changing your lighting to the new style led lighting, while the initial expense may seem high, the fact that no replacement tubes for ten years and the lower running costs may be much more appealing.

So come and see us when it’s time replace your lights – and if they don’t need replacing yet, then why not ask us if they can be improved easily!

Marine Feeding

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Marine Feeding

Feeding your marine fish should be an enjoyable part of the hobby – and you need to get it right!

All fish require a varied diet, and many small feeds are better than one or two large ones.

It is also very important to provide the correct food for the species of fish you’re feeding as some fish, when fed the wrong die,t will not live long and may ,show repeated signs of disease – for example Tang need algae in their diet and may suffer from repeated oodinium outbreaks if fed shrimp on a daily basis.

Brine Shrimp (Artemia)

Frozen brine shrimp is possibly the most used feed for marine fish but as an every day diet it is not very nutritious but new types of brine shrimp with additives fed or added to the shrimp before freezing have made this food much better.
We stock frozen Brine shrimp plus garlic, Brine shrimp plus omega 3 and Brine shrimp with spirulina all designed to balance the diet.


Fish like Tang’s, Angelfish etc need algae in their diet as a main source of food, these fish spend all day grazing the reef eating algae, their intestine is short compared to a fish that eats high protein diets that consist of other fish or shrimps, so when fed shrimp alone they have problems digesting this, which then leads to other problems like weight loss and diseases like oodinium (marine white spot) which is not easy to cure in a mixed reef system. Seaweed Select produce three types of marine algae all has been enhanced with garlic to aid better digestion.

Variety is the spice of life!

All fish need to have a varied diet so include different foods at each feed change, from brine shrimp to mysis shrimp or krill and don’t forget the benefit of a good marine flake food this has many extra vitamins added to promote longer and healthier lives.Remember, when using frozen fish food’s, to defrost it before feeding.The easiest way of doing this is to take a small cup of water from your aquarium and drop the portion of food in to defrost for a few minutes, then as you pour it into your aquarium it will disperse allowing all the fish to feed.


Corals need feeding as well, some benefit from direct feeding with a pipette most are happy with a liquid food such as Marine snow or Phyto plankton, feed sparingly so as not to build up a high nitrate or phosphate reading.


Anemones need food, a feed of defrosted whole mussel or cockle every now and again possibly only once a fortnight. If you have clown fish hosting in an anemone give them a piece of food that is to large for them and they will push it into the anemone and it will feed itself. Remember that on the reef no one goes around shoving food in anemones so if you give them too much food they will regurgitate it later in the day and it will rot in the tank.


Lighting plays a part with food for corals and anemones, all these creatures have a symbiotic algae in them, it goes by the complicated name of Zooxanthellae algae, this algae needs to stay alive for the coral or anemone to stay alive so the correct lighting for a reef is a must, this will be a marine matter for the future.


The use of garlic cannot be under estimated, it helps with digestion and enhances the immune system of fish which in turn helps prevent disease.
Some foods come with garlic added to them but a garlic supplement is available to pre-soak foods before feeding.

All foods and additives are available from us in store where we can guide you to a happier aquarium.

Algae Growth in Marine Aquaria

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Algae Growth in Marine Aquaria

This month’s topic is one that a lot of customers are asking us about – and that is algae growth in the aquarium.

The answer to this is not always simple – but there are a few simple checks that you can make to help find out the cause.


Nitrate should be as low as possible – but in our humble opinion not zero – some creatures, like anemones, clams and micro algae need nitrate to feed on and ultimately stay alive.


Phosphate should be as low as possible – and if you can achieve it, zero.


Check the calcium level – it should stay at 420 ppm and remain stable, if it fluctuates this can cause problems.


Ph must also remain stable at 8.2.

Weekly tests are a must – but let’s be honest, do we all do this? Most of the time the readings are correct – but the time we don’t test is when problems occur.

A quick tip – if your test kits are over six months old the reagents will have oxidized and will not give correct readings.


Maintenance is the key – when we keep tropical aquaria we use a gravel cleaner and keep the substrate spotless. Most marine keepers don’t use this but it is a great tool for getting muck out of the sand and always pay attention to those dead spots.

If you have never used one before, you’ll be surprised at how much fine brown dust comes out of the sand – particularly next to the live rock, this mulm is a major cause of phosphate.

So clean the tank, do a 10% water change weekly, clean your filter (in water taken from the tank to preserve the bacteria) and keep your protein skimmer clean to maximise its efficiency.

If you need to, add nitrate removers like Seachem’s de-nitrate and change it regularly. For high phosphate use Phosguard or Rowaphos – these are best used in reactors but work well in filters.

Turbo snails will keep algae down – and for tanks that have a lot of algae, particularly hairy growths, a sea hare is a super addition to the aquarium – not the prettiest thing in the world (see picture) but it will demolish algae!


Lighting also plays a part, fluorescent tubes last twelve months after this time they have lost 90% of their output!

Although they still look bright to us, they aren’t to the creatures in your aquarium. Old light tubes give the wrong spectrum of light and will lead to excessive algae growth.

Leave your lights on for eight to ten hours daily.

With a little extra care we all can have a happy aquarium!